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Choosing a color for your manicure? Super fun. Battling brittle nails? Way less fun. Annoying as it may be, we’re happy to report that it is, in some cases, possible to strengthen your nails. But before we get to that, it’s important to understand the potential culprits.
“When we talk about the causes of weak or brittle nails, we consider two broad categories,” Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and founder of Dr. Dana nail products, tells SELF. The first is internal factors: genetics, certain medical conditions, nutrient deficiencies, and aging, she says. Yes, just like getting older changes your skin and hair, it also affects your nails and can make them thinner and more fragile.1
The reason is twofold. First, circulation, especially to your extremities (i.e. your hands and feet), generally becomes more compromised as you age. This is problematic for the nails, as they depend on efficient blood flow to deliver nutrients and oxygen for healthy growth, Dr. Stern points out. Second, “The stem cells in your nail matrix that are responsible for helping nails grow start to slow down and work less efficiently,” Kseniya Kobets, MD, board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in New York City, tells SELF.
Then there are external factors. “This includes nail-care habits, the products we use, and environmental exposures,” Dr. Stern explains. Broadly speaking, these factors tend to dry out and/or damage the nails, both of which can result in weakness. And while you really can’t do much to alter the genetics you were born with or stop the aging process, you can control some of the external stuff; certain changes can make a big difference when it comes to growing stronger, healthier nails, Dr. Stern says.
What kind of changes, you ask? Here, experts share the best things you can do to strengthen nails, ranging from mani tweaks to adding a few products to your cart.
1. Rule out an underlying issue.
As we mentioned, weak nails can be a symptom of several different medical conditions. Fungal infections and nail psoriasis, for example, can result in both brittleness and yellowing, Dr. Kobets says. If you notice a change in strength and color, or if it just seems like one or two nails are weaker than the rest, she recommends seeing a dermatologist or your primary care provider for an evaluation, if you’re able to. Fungal infections can be treated with over-the-counter creams or ointments, as well as prescription-strength topicals and oral medications. For nail psoriasis, there are a variety of prescription meds your doctor may recommend, per the American Academy of Dermatology.
Raynaud’s disease (a disorder that compromises blood flow to the extremities), hypothyroidism, and anemia can also weaken nails, Dr. Stern adds.2 3 4 If yours have always been strong and healthy but suddenly turn weak and brittle for no apparent reason, see your doctor for a physical and blood workup to get to the bottom of it.
Assuming that there’s no serious medical problem at play, though, your weaker nails might be the result of some harmful habits that require a little tweaking. To that point:
2. Use a glass nail file.
This is arguably the simplest swap to make and an imperative step in caring for soft nails, according to the experts SELF spoke with. Coarse files, like traditional emery boards, cause tiny tears that leave the free edge of the nail (the very tip) rough and more apt to snag on things and break, nail technician Amy Ling Lin, founder and CEO of Sundays, tells SELF.
Glass files, on the other hand, create a much smoother edge, she says. Dr. Stern agrees: “This is such an easy fix for people, especially those who have weak nails that are prone to peeling and splitting at the tips.” Try OPI’s Crystal Nail File ($15, Ulta) or Tweezerman’s Glass Nail File ($9, Amazon.com).
Ulta
OPI Crystal Nail File
Amazon
Tweezerman Glass Nail File
3. Take a break in between long-lasting manicures.
Durable manicures—gels, acrylics, dips—are a major win when you want that flawlessly polished look for weeks on end, but they’re unfortunately not doing your nails any favors. Dr. Kobets says that many of her patients tell her these types of manis make their nails feel stronger, but that’s just a superficial and temporary effect. “The consistent pressure of thicker types of polish or artificial nails on the nail matrix, the area at the base of the nail under the cuticle where growth is initiated, can ultimately cause the nail to grow out thinner,” she explains.
Dr. Stern agrees that long-lasting manicures aren’t great, although she cites the harsh removal process as the main problem. It typically consists of a long soak in dehydrating acetone, coupled with aggressive scraping that weakens the nail, she says.
This doesn’t mean you have to forgo your beloved gel manicures forever, but it’s worth being mindful and taking a break when you can. Lin advises tailoring the timetable based on the condition of your nails. “If they’re in pretty good shape and you just want to avoid damage, take a week or two off every one to three months,” she suggests. “But if your nails are softer or you’re trying to protect brittle nails, consider leaving them bare for closer to four to six weeks.”
4. Opt for acetone-free polish remover.
“All nail polish removers have to be formulated with some type of solvent,” Dr. Stern says. “Ingredients in this category are innately dehydrating, but acetone is the worst of the bunch.” Nail cells are flat and overlap like shingles on roof: When they dry out, they’re more likely to lift and peel off, which is why the nail ends up not only thinner and weaker, but also more prone to surface irregularities like bumps and ridges, she explains.
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Like making the switch to a glass nail file, choosing a non-acetone remover is an easy and quick fix. Keep in mind that it may require a little bit more elbow grease to remove all the color, though—and that removers without acetone will only work on regular polish, not long-lasting formulas like professional gel. Using a clear base coat before your color can help make the removal process easier, Lin says, since it keeps the polish from staining or absorbing into the nail, which can make it harder to remove. A couple to try: Ella & Mila Jojoba Nail Polish Remover ($11, Amazon) or Cutex Non-Acetone Ultra-Care Nail Polish Remover ($3, Target).
Amazon
Ella+Mila Jojoba Non-Acetone Nail Polish Remover
5. Protect your nails from too much water.
Yep, you read that right. Good old H2O isn’t as innocuous as you may think—when it comes to nail health, anyway. “Nails can absorb roughly 1,000 times more water than skin. They act like sponges, soaking up liquid, which causes the nail cells to expand and then contract,” Dr. Stern explains. “This cycle of expansion and contraction ultimately weakens them and makes them much more prone to breakage, especially if they’re already brittle to begin with.”
Something as simple as popping on a pair of rubber gloves while you’re doing the dishes can make a huge difference, she adds. To that point, frequent hand washing can also weaken your nails, but since you don’t want to cut back on that, the next best thing is to make sure to add moisture immediately afterward.
6. Moisturize your cuticles like you mean it.
Similar to how hair and scalp health are inextricably linked, healthy nails and healthy cuticles are too. “The skin of the cuticle is what envelops and protects the nail matrix where nail growth originates. If that skin is dry or compromised, allergens (such as fragrance) and dehydrating chemicals can more easily penetrate and damage the matrix,” Dr. Kobets explains.
Her advice: Apply a cuticle cream or oil as often as possible (ideally, at least once per day), massaging it into the area at the base of the nail. Look for products that contain a combination of humectants, such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which attract moisture, coupled with occlusive ingredients like shea butter or petrolatum to help lock the hydration in, Dr. Kobets recommends. Olive & June’s Cuticle Serum fits the bill ($15, Target).
Target
Olive & June Cuticle Serum
7. Give your actual nails some love too.
It can also help to add moisture to the nail itself, although this is a little bit easier said than done. “The composition of the nail and its thick layers of a protein called keratin make it hard for anything to penetrate, which is why one of the biggest challenges is actually getting products to go in,” Dr. Stern says.5
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Oils tend to penetrate best, she adds, specifically those that are rich in phospholipids, which are fatty compounds that have been shown to increase nail flexibility and combat brittleness.6 The good news? You can pick up an effective nail moisturizer on your next grocery run. “I tell my patients to rub sunflower oil into their nails a few times per day. It’s rich in those phospholipids, not to mention it’s cheap and accessible,” Dr. Stern adds.7 (FYI: Canola oil is also high in phospholipids and might already be standing by in your kitchen.)
8. Choose “strengthening” nail products wisely.
There’s certainly no shortage of purported nail strengtheners out there, but buyers beware: They’re not all created equal. “Skip any product that’s going to require nail polish remover in order to take it off, like a base or top coat. These are basically just glorified versions of clear polish and using the drying remover is going to counteract any of their effects,” Dr. Stern says.
Instead, Dr. Kobets suggests opting for leave-on treatments with those moisturizing humectants and occlusives she mentions above, and to also look out for pistacia oil, an ingredient that, she says, has been shown to increase nail thickness.5 A couple to consider: Isdin’s SI-Nails ($32, Dermstore) and Kerasal’s Multi-Purpose Nail Repair ($19, Amazon).
Dermstore
ISDIN Si-Nails Nail Serum Strengthener
Amazon
Kerasal Multi-Purpose Nail Repair
9. Be wary of biotin supplements.
If you’ve ever googled “What vitamins help nails get stronger?” you’ve likely heard about biotin, a B vitamin regularly touted as a miracle fix for both nails and hair. Decades ago, oral biotin was purported to be the solution to brittle nails, with proponents claiming that it could increase firmness and thickness, Dr. Stern explains. However, she says, research has since come out showing that when taken at higher doses, biotin could interfere with blood work results, making doctors much more cautious about recommending it.
There are some studies suggesting that oral biotin has a beneficial effect on nail health, but they’re not definitive, robust, or placebo-controlled, Dr. Stern adds, noting that even in her anecdotal experience she’s never been convinced that these supplements work. Dr. Kobets is slightly less skeptical, though she does point out that the existing studies tend to focus on overall nail health rather than strength specifically.
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More importantly, a supplement isn’t going to do anything unless you have a biotin deficiency, Dr. Kobets notes. And it’s rare to be deficient, as biotin is found in many common foods, including eggs, seeds, nuts, and veggies such as sweet potatoes. So before you drop lots of money on biotin pills promising to help you grow stronger nails, it’s worth having a conversation with your doctor to determine whether or not the vitamin is worth trying. (And if so, at what dosage.)
10. Pay attention to your protein intake.
Unfortunately, according to the doctors we spoke with, there aren’t any other nail-strengthening supplements worth taking instead; everyone wants one that’s a grand slam for nails, but we have yet to find it, Dr. Stern says. What you can do is try to get enough protein in your diet (roughly 20–30 grams per meal, as SELF previously reported) because, again, the nails are made up of the protein keratin.
However, like with biotin, that’s likely not going to yield any kind of dramatic change unless you’re protein deficient, which is also rare in the US, Dr. Stern says. Still, as part of a holistic approach—and coupled with the aforementioned advice—it certainly can’t hurt to eat a well-balanced diet in your quest to keep your nails in tip-top shape.
Sources:
- Canadian Family Physician, Common Nail Changes and Disorders in Older People
- Cardiovascular Journal of Africa, Raynaud’s Phenomenon
- Cutis, Nail Changes Associated With Thyroid Disease
- Clinical Case Reports, Spoon Nails: Still Seen in Today's World
- Dermatology and Therapy, Clinical and Instrumental Objective Evidence of the Efficacy of a New Water-Based Nail-Strengthening Solution Containing Pistacia lentiscus and Hyaluronic Acid Applied for Up to 6 Months to Improve the Appearance of Weak, Brittle Nails
- British Journal of Dermatology, An Assessment of Factors Influencing Flexibility of Human Fingernails
- OCL, Effects of Refining Process on Sunflower Oil Minor Components: A Review
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